London to Paris on a Brompton

A while ago someone came up with a idea of a signed London to Paris cycle route and in 2006 I rode the route on a organised ride arranged by East Sussex County Council and French partners. Since then I've ridden the French route 3 times but not the UK sections. In 2012 the route was finalised and actually signed but with very little publicity. Since then a website has been developed,  

The Avenue Verte first in French and now in English. So in the spirit of adventure I decided to ride the whole route and write a short blog about the trip. I invite assorted persons who I thought would be up for the trip and on the 24th May 4 of us departed (in heavy rain) from the London Eye taking 5 days to get to Paris via Newhaven/Dieppe. The following is my own personal account of the trip - the names have not been changed because they are very definitely not innocent. They were Garth Taylor (who I have known since meeting in Lewisham Hospital in 1986) on his smart looking touring bike, Simon Pratt (who is a regional director for Sustrans - so lots of the bad sections are his fault) astride his made to measure tourer which must be over 30 years old and Tobias Bauer who was the cycling officer for E Sussex back in 2006 and pretty instrumental is devising the route (of which more later) and someone I've kept in touch with ever since. Both Simon and Tobias are strong riders which meant that they had plenty of time to hang around waiting for Garth and myself. For a reason that I can't remember I decided to ride the route on a borrowed 3 speed Brompton (standard gearing), the only adaption was spd pedals. Something I was to regret but having ridden the original route on a 6 speed Brompton a couple of times I didn't think would be a problem.

The maps and gps tracks were recorded on my mobile phone using a app called My Tracks.  The elevation gain looks suspiciously dodgy as 5000 feet of climbing seems unlikely especially on the more flatter days.

Day 1 - Friday 24th May 2013

We started at around 10am in very damp conditions. I would love to say that there was a lot of information about the route and history of the project but there wasn't. There was nothing. Fortunately various gps tracks and Simon having ridden this a few times meant that finding the small 'AV' signs helpfully added to existing NCN wasn't a particular problem and off down the banks of the Thames we went heading north over Lambeth Bridge. Reasonably quiet roads to Chelsea Bridge where we left NCN4 and headed south - along a road called Queenstown Road. Well a more unattractive, busy, hilly, road you would be hard pressed to find in this part of London - I can only guess that the poor cyclists coming from Paris will be so knackered by the time they get to this section that they just wouldn't care about the road. It is truly horrible. Given that when you get onto Clapham Common itself (and from here there are mainly quiet roads) you come across the London Cycle Network route 3 - which goes very close to Lambeth Bridge - I just can't understand the logic - going into Westminster can't be THAT important can it? There were many other strange alignments to come. Welcome to the world of Wandsworth with all the '£30 fine for cycling on pavement' signs everywhere and a amazing 'no cycling' bridge on Wandsworth Common. Welcome to the UK cyclists. Signage wasn't bad and from here it was onto the Wandle Trail.which isn't too bad as it headed south following the lovely fast flowing river. I like the Wandle Trail - shame it never managed to reach the Thames but its been promised for years, and years and y... It was now pouring but did we care? Actually not really. Tea and cake (no beer) in Oaks Park Sutton where this photo was taken and tweeted. You can see the small 'AV' additions to the normal NCN signage.

Through the delights of Coulsdon and then up onto Farthing Common where we encounter some rather strange speed reduction measures - well done Croydon Council (a herd of cows) - less well done was the complete lack of signage leading up the the common. Normally there are great views all around - today just cloud. A pretty fast descent down and over the M25 (we must be out of London) clocked me at nearly 30 mph - I must be mad. Then the first section off road, interesting, but the delights of the Inn on the Pond near Redhill. Sign on the door said that they served food till 2.30 and as it was 2.10 we were pretty pleased. Of course only in the UK would you get a pub to send its kitchen staff home early as 'they were quiet' so it was a (very good) pint and off into the rain. More sodden paths (impassable in one place) and onwards into Horley for a toasty and tea. I always love cycling through the centre of Gatwick Airport where you have a motorway, airport and the train station right besides you. Quickly through Crawley (the only way) and off along the Worth Way - a old train line (pretty common thread on this trip) from Three Bridges to East Grinstead and beyond. The path crosses a main road beside a old station called Rowfant Station. It was here that Tobias's rear wheel decided that it had had enough and with a loud bang split along the rim. That was the end of his cycling (it was still raining),

some people will do anything for a taxi ride. Strangely the local minicab controller didn't know where the Station was - good heavens it only closed 50 years ago. The minicab driver didn't seem to worry about a dirty bike being put in this boot... not a damp Tobias. This is where the battery on the phone gave up the ghost so missed the last 5 miles to the East Grinstead Lodge . Very comfortable and a hot radiator was very welcome. Around 50 miles traveled. See this link for full route.

Day 2 - Saturday 25th May 2013

What a contrast in the weather and after a hearty English breakfast and a high pressure hose on the Brompton it was on the road again. Through the centre of a nice looking East Grinstead we picked up the Forest Way south of the town and along the route we passed some of Tobias's claims to fame, Stainless steel cycle racks next to picnic benches. Still there after all these years. The surface of the Worth Way isn't too bad considering and we made reasonable time. Even after the end of the old railway line the route took quiet (and not flat) local roads until Eridge station The Huntsman pub looked very nice but no time to stop  Here you have to (almost) guess you head through a gate and then up a steep (grass) slope a run parallel with the A26 for a few hundred yards. From here its pretty undulating passing through a few nice villages/towns. A very nice pint of local cider at the Kings Arms in Rotherfield and onwards towards Heathfield. We avoided the 'official' Sustrans route which heads up a very steep 'trail' into the local woods and kept to the road - Newick Lane - very steep to start with and less steep after that. Once into Heathfield its a dropdown and onto the Cuckoo Trail, yet another old railway line released to walkers and cyclists by Dr Beeching.. It was (literally) downhill all the way into Polegate via a bikers cafe in Horam. Pretty flat from here on into Seaford but via a 'challenging' cross country part of the NCN - for those used to Sustrans rural routes you would not be surprised. Still it makes London's roads seem pretty smooth.

Cuckmere River - the wrong route though, average standard for NCN ;-)

Garth and I decided to explore the wrong route into Seaford but at least we got a good view of the river and Seven Sisters cliffs - much whiter than those in Dover. This was a hill! Morrisons for cakes and other emergency rations for the next morning and then a beer at the very nice Wellington Hotel is Seaford, impressive beer selection. Next stop the ferry terminal (3 miles) for the 2300 4 hour crossing. 4 berth cabins booked - all ensuite and pretty comfortable. No time for beers as the crossing is only 4 hours and they start banging (literally) on doors from 2.15 (UK time) onwards. Loads of cyclists onboard including many who had ridden that day from London, rather haphazard cycle parking arrangements on the boat but once all tied down they were not going anywhere. We somehow had a (more expensive) cabin  with a port hole, Much better than I thought they would be and as there was 4 of us worked out at about £25 per person. You have to book a 4 berth even if there is only a single person. We all thought that it was worth the extra costs and more comfortable than a floor (too old for that I think).

The Seven Sisters

The daily total was about 55 miles (including the Seaford to the ferry section) and about 7 hours in the saddle. Pretty hilly especially in the Weald.

As you can see from the track the route is not exactly direct which is a recurring theme of the Avenue Verte. I guess some might say that it adds to the charm of the route - others may disagree. See this for the full route.

Day 3 - Sunday 26th May 2013

2.15am (3.15 am French time) lights flashing, bells ringing and bangs on the door. Yes we were still at sea but the crew wanted us out. Just another 5 minutes....We didn't rush and when told we were the last we thought he was joking - he wasn't. The corridor was strewn with bedding and vacuum cleaners and most bikes had gone from the car deck. Into the cold air at 4.15 am and through passport control pushing into the queues of cars and occasional lorry. lots of red flashing lights going away into the almost deserted town that is Dieppe. A odd few locals wishing us a good evening and after a quick look round the town it was obvious everything was closed - 4.30am so not really a surprise! The only thing to do was to get going and find the real Avenue Verte. We picked up a couple of British cyclists who looked lost and escorted them the 9 km to the start of, yes you guessed it, the old Dieppe to Paris railway line. A different meaning to shades of grey at this time of morning - no sign of the sun peeping through the clouds on the horizon as we passed the well closed cafe near the start (very nice local cider sold here). So 40 km of the Avenue Verte in all its glory. I pointed out the few places that have a cafe just off the route as this is the 5th time I've ridden this section. Its great initially but can get slightly boring as its slightly uphill all the way with little to see. The road junctions are really well designed so sight lines are great - you hardly have to adjust your speed. Pretty good chance to try drafting the rider in front of you. Neufchatel (famous for its cheese) is the first town of any size that you go through - this was our chance to see if there was a open cafe and bakers for refreshments - well there were two bakers but no cafe...well not until well after 9 am said the baker. There were a few other Brits munching croissants/baguettes and partaking in various juices/coke that the boulangère sold in a OK pocket park. From here it was back on the the AV, next stop Forges. The end of the original route finishes at the main rail line, the route itself does use some small paths and makes it was right into Forges where you come to the town centre pretty buzzing at around 9.30 in the morning with many boulangère, cafes, supermarkets etc. We stopped at the Cafe de Dieppe right on the cross roads along with a few other Brits who were also on the ferry, I've been here a few times before and its not too bad. After some coffee, tea and a beer for me things were looking up - apart from a rear puncture on the Brompton. Whilst I fixed the bike the others went off to the local supermarket to stock up with something for our evening meal at our overnight stop. We were then off into the countryside, one 'feature' of the AV alignment is that it will do almost anything to avoid a slightly busy road (with one or two exceptions) even if it means the route is fairly hilly. Next stop was Gournay-en-Bray where we found a nice cafe for lunch, local beer and some wine. The initial idea of the official alignment was to follow the old railway line and indeed the plan was to now follow the old railway track. this is what Simon expected to see nearly ready. Was he in for a surprise. Instead of loads of cyclists using the old track bed someone had decided to reopen the train line (see here for all you could want to know and photos etc. scroll down. Due to open for freight later in 2013 and a passenger service in 2014. So the AV will have to use the very quiet country roads including the hills.

I did like the occasional use of the 'warning cyclists' sign which was a fairly common site in this area. We also stopped to look at a village church, names Notre Dame, which was pretty impressive and the bells were being rung for reasons best known to the ringer. From here it was into St Germer-de-Fly with its very impressive former Benedictine abbey . The direct route from Gourney would have been approx 12km to our accommodation but given a road that is slightly busy the official route heads out east and takes a very roundabout route, including the other AV alignment that goes to Beauvais. Not sure of the distance but I can tell you it was considerably more than 12km and included a few ups and downs along the way. Given that the sun was shining and pretty warm I guess we didn't mind too much. The extra weight of the wine I was carrying was assisted by the knowledge that we would soon be able to drink it along with various cheeses and meats (not to mention Tobias's radishes). The final climb was only a few km from our nights stop at Domaine du Patis in Amecourt. Pretty steep hill but once at he top it was all along the ridge for miles. The place was amazing, a working XII century farm which, given the clear blue skies, looking very impressive. Stored bikes, showered and sat in comfy seats in the garden, the only downside was a persistent dog who just wanted to play. Our evening meal was what we had carried around most of the day and was taken in the main section of our accommodation building.

Warming by the fire - end of May??

A nice touch was that our hosts had left a wood fire burning which was very welcome as the evening was a little chilly. A great place to spend a few days relaxing and somewhere to return to, almost whatever the weather. Highly recommended and a reasonable price.Full route here.

 

 

Day 4 - Monday 27th May 2013

In the background is the accommodation

Entrance to the farm/accommodation

As you can see from the photographs the weather was lovely, slight chill but due to warm up later. A nice breakfast and Garth (who speaks fluent French) had a long chat with the lady owner which included a, almost, life history of the family, family name and the ownership of the farm. I just happened to mention a liking of Calvados and guess what... yes the farm does make its own and the lady kindly provided us with two half bottles to sample later, saying that is was tough not to try then and there.  Good job I was focused on the day ahead.

From here it was along the ridge before dropping down into Gisors which is famous for a very impressive church and fort. The fort itself is inside a public park so no admission charges and a nice place to rest for a while.
Gisors is a busy town and there was a market on as we went through. We did stop to look at the famous church, with impressive spiral stairs to the bell tower. Some culture need to be included rather than just cafes even if its just for balance.

From Gisors the AV seeks out yet another old railway track, this one not quite as good as the AV out Dieppe way but still pretty good compared to Sustrans routes in the UK (sorry Sustrans). We did pass fields of vines in the Dagnu area but little info on the internet about this. We didn't stop (shame) at 2 nice looking cafes in Les Bourdeaux de Saint-Claire, just off the route, but I saw them. I guess because we were heading to Bray-et-Lû for lunch. One cafe in the town, right opposite the zinc factory (with official plaque). Nice simple lunch at the Tabac/PMU washed down with local beer and not so local wine.

Back onto quiet roads including one of my favorite (!!!) sections as you can see in the photo. Must be nice in the wet. This linked up 2 on-road sections so I guess it makes sense but it would be nicer to have a proper surface. Another slight diversion from Maudetour-en-vexin to Arthies as the formal route uses a narrow, rough unmade path (worse than the photo) rather than an adjacent road with very little traffic. One has to ask why but this part of the route does have some strange ideas of where to go. We all noticed a sign for local cider in Arthies and I was first to follow these even if it was taking us off route. Unfortunately the lady of the house was off to collect grand children from school so had to close for approx 30 minutes, Much as I  like to try local drinks (especially cider) I've come across the phrase "30 minutes" in rural areas and these are seldom that short... so onwards.  Just after we met a local cyclist clad in full lycra and on a nice looking bike. We started talking, as you do, and after my usual couple of French words I left him with Garth... amazing what you can learn in a few minutes conversation but he, in his mid 70's, still competed in local races but he said that he struggles to compete with others as they still doped even though they were 60 years plus old. It must be a very hard practice to stop. He then said that he knew the route - and as we were English we wouldn't but once he understood Simon knew where we were going chose to follow us. I think I might have mentioned open cafes or something similar and he seemed to indicate nothing open in the area. Now I like hunting out cafes to make sure we don't dehydrate but Simon has a particular liking for boulangèries - which I can sort of understand. He rode with us till Vignes when Simon noticed (and I think knew of) a nice looking bakers, before he knew it we had stopped. I expect he just put it down to English eccentricity and carried on by himself. Just before this the AV took a right into a made up path round some type of building, we stuck to the road. Again shortly after the route heads up a farm track and up and over a hill whilst the road (with cycle lane) heads up a medium trafficked road to meet up a few kms further on. It was my turn in Sagy and the temptation to stop at a nice looking cafe, with tables and chairs outside, was too hard to resist. Here many other UK charity cyclists streamed by perhaps looking enviously at us with cool beers. Very nice break it was too. A few more hills and one of the busier roads (perhaps no alternative) brought us into Cergy and our hotel for the night.

Cery is approx 30km from the centre of Paris and the end of a RER 'metro' route. The centre is a brand new complex of cafes, supermarkets, a multiplex and the usual types of places for satellite towns. Lots of stainless steel as well everywhere. Oh and a very good boulangère. Simon had wanted to go and see something called the Axe Majeur Axe Majeur so after stocking up on bread and cakes (I brought a bottle of wine from the nearby supermarket - I always try to have plastic glasses and a bottle opener - you never know) we headed off that way. Pretty impressive view from the top over central Paris and we sat around eating and drinking (as you do) watching the world go by - oh and personal trainers taking their clients though the paces up and down the steps.

Our hotel was pretty close and whilst not as good as the night before (it would have been hard) was acceptable as all Etap type hotels are. Complete lack of any restaurants in the area bar the normal corporate Courtepaille Not too bad but slightly pricey. Morning route here. Followed by the afternoon trip.

Day 5 - Tuesday 28th May 2013

Now for the river level view of the Axe Majeur.

Not exactly a direct route

We dropped down, via the previous evenings boulangère for breakfast - a very strange arrangement of ordering, paying (with change from a machine) and separate service - to the river bridge which is one of the few River Oise crossings around. After having a look around it was off towards Paris following the AV itself. Now its about 30km into central Paris if you were a crow but he AV winds its way along rivers and clocks up about 70kms. Dead flat. For most of the day it was pouring with rain and with a small stone covering on the paths made for dirty bikes, not to mention dirty clothes. The route heads south following the river Oise (which starts in a small town called Chimay in Belgium) and included a brand new surfaced section. We did wonder about this part as it was very slippery and in our opinion just didn't work. Large signs about the amazing new, sustainable, way of path covering but don't try this at home...

The end of the Oise and the start of our Seine following for much of the day. Big rivers these with much commercial river traffic. As you will see from the map the route does meander much, along the river, over the rive, through a forest (not a bad surface I thought) and into Maisons-Laffitte with a complete lack of signage (they were not interested I understand) and past the end of the horse racing course. Chatou was our lunch stop - right place at he right time. Nice friendly restaurant where we sort of dried out. It was now about the time we were hoping to get to the finish - it was not to be. From here it was along the Seine - again - and then via some pretty busy roads through the dock area (yes if you think it sounds bad it was). Just north of Gennevilliers we picked up the local tram route - a off road cycle route was welcome but given the rain a less busy route would have been nice. Unfortunately Garth didn't spot the tram tracks hidden by a strategic puddle and down he went. Even more unfortunate was the 3 of us weren't there to see it - not to laugh (honest) but to assist. I waited on a corner in St Denis - not something I would recommend as those of you who have been to St Denis would know - and sometime later along came a bloodied Garth. The next section of the route follows the canal right into the centre of Paris - pretty good way into town even if its via the riot police sorting out certain 'issues' under motorway bridges. At the junction of the canals you can either follow the canal - and old alignment - via cycle tracks to Bastille (and beyond straight onto the Isle St Louis and Notre Dame) or the AV route which heads, via quiet streets to the Rue Saint Denis - which is not the quietest of roads - not motors lots of peds. Still both take you to the finish at Notre Dame. By now the rain had stopped and the sun was out. Ever busy of course and I did strike up a conversation with a gentleman from the USA who was there touring with 4 Bromptons. You just can't get away from them.Final days trip here.

Sign right by Notre Dame

Me and the Brommie - Verity.

Photos taken, one with the AV sign in the background (didn't see one in London), Garth just about managing to smile through the pain (he had to rest the leg for 4 weeks afterwards). Just time to find a local (not too local due to prices) cafe for a beer or two before I cycled off Gare du Nord for Eurostar home. 5 days to get there and 2.5 hours to get home.

So, in conclusion.... Would I ride this again. The English side...well no. I am glad that I have done it but don't really think I would rush to do so again. As for the French side well yes, parts of. I quite fancy riding the Beauvais section into Paris but would most likely not follow the exact alignment and use a few busier and more direct routes. I think I would also choose a bike with a few more gears ;-) I did struggle with the spd's after a few days with knee hurting (good job I had some pain killers). Not sure why as I haven't had that problem on other bikes including Bromptons. If the French could sort out a few of the major issues, including the busier sections, nasty off road parts and some improved signage I would recommend it to others.
Worst part of the whole route - realising that it used Queenstown Road SW London which must be one of the busiest and least cycle friendly roads in the area. All despite LCN route 3 going from Lambeth Bridge to Clapham Common. Why oh why I have to ask myself, I can see no logic in that alignment.